Having only recently acquired our ice cream machine, it seemed a bit of a blow that my wife now has to trial a dairy-free diet. Sorbets are fine, but we both prefer the more fatty dish. As a diabetic, I would much rather indulge in something containing protein and fat than just a frozen sugar syrup.
Today’s essay in the craft of ices is based on coconut cream, an emulsified form of coconut milk. I figured that emulsified coconut fat might go some way towards recreating the texture of a milk-based ice.
- 400ml can coconut cream
- 125g caster sugar
- 1 egg
- 1 small espresso
- Small shot of Captain Morgan rum
Ingredients are whisked until thoroughly mixed; due to the slighly granular consistency of the finished product, I feel that I may have under-done the whisking a little. Mixture is then introduced into the ice cream machine, which is run until it looks ready.
A quick taste-test whilst transferring to the freezer container was very promising indeed – to me, a better flavour than my milk/cream-based coffee ice cream, but then I am not normally keen on any milk/coffee combination.
My wife was rather taken with this. I tried it myself, but did not like it for the same reason that I do not like coffee ice cream – coffee is fine as long as it is served as espresso, but as soon as it is adulterated with anything, for me, it gains a huge yuck factor.
Regarding yuck factors, there have been some comments regarding the use of raw egg in this dish. We are in the fortunate position that, like our meat, our eggs are of known source and known quality, with a very short supply chain. I have no more qualms about eating these eggs raw than I would about making steak tartare with beef fillet from out butcher. Having said that, if either eggs or beef were coming from a supermarket, there is no way that I would use them raw.
For those who cannot or will not eat eggs, or cannot source good quality, fresh eggs, adding some lecithin to the mix may be an option. Please note that this will reduce the protein content to virtually nil. People with soy allergies should also check on the source of any lecithin that they might use.
Also on the nutritional front, whilst I have calculated that the fat content of the coconut based dish is similar to that of the dairy based one, it should be noted that the type of fat is different – I believe that the coconut version would contain more saturated fat than its dairy counterpart, for anyone who worries about that sort of thing. (You should be worrying about the sugar content far more than the fat.)